Peace in the Middle East

Hello dear friends and family. I (Emily) am finally able to be the one updating the blog as my dear husband sleeps...We are in hot and sunny Andalucia, having arrived by the high speed AVE train from Sevilla to Cordoba this morning. The train was very comfortable and only 42 min. We are here in Cordoba during the Feia de los Patios...the May Patio Festival. A time when the normally private inner courtyards of the homes and businesses around Cordoba open to the public for viewing while the flowers are in full bloom. We will start our walking tour of the patios around the city after the siesta, though we have already had a long visit to the Mezquita (cathedral), the main attraction in Cordoba.

After visiting the Mezquita and other sites in Sevilla, it is with a clearer picture of the history of the relationship between Muslims and Christians that I now contextualize the current ¨Peace in the Middle East¨. We are staying in the Jewish quarter of Cordoba, in a Catholic country, once rulled by the Moors. The Mezquita is a wonderful, huge mosque with shimmering golden mosaics and rows and rows of red-and-white striped arches disappearing off into infinity, it is clearly one of the great creations of Islamic architecture, founded in 785 on the site of a Visigothic curch that had been partitioned between Muslims and Christians. What is so remarkable, is that in the middle of this historical Mosque, they plunked a 16th century cathedral and the surrounding parts have tons of smaller Capillas. It is such an odd mixture of the two religions, but together they make a most remarkable and historically notable building.

In Sevilla, I visited the Alcathar, another Moorish/Spanish fortress of great strength and beauty. Here too there have been controversies over the history, and a melding of history and architecture. Located next to the gigantic and austentatious Cathedral in downtown Sevilla, this intriuging and beautiful complex is intimately associated with the lives and loves of several later rulers, above all, the extraordinary Pedro I of Castille (1350-69) who was knows as either Pedro El Cruel, or Pedro El Justiciero. Originally founded as a fort for the Cordoban governors of Seville in 913, the Alcazar has been expanded or reconstructed many times in its 11 centuries of existence. There are walls, gorgiously decorated, that have a section above reciting the powers of Allah, and directly below, exhalting a Spanish King. Such beautiful combinations of complex contraditions abound...as do controversies about history. It seems every time they do an excavation, they discover that a building thought to be founded by the Christians was founded by the Moors or vice versa. (Glad I don´t have to sit in those board room meetings). Here it is clear that the locals and goverment officials refer to the Mezquita as ¨the Cathedral¨, while our guide books refer to it as the ¨Mezquita¨.

I guess the question is, with these centuries of conflict, would we ever expect to find peace in the middle east?

On a brighter note, Michael and I continue to have a lovely time. Our last hostel was not fancy, but it was central, and relatively clean. Much the same can be said for the current one...though the bed is much more comfortable! We have 2 nights here before heading off to Granada, to see the ultimate in Moorish splendor: the Alhambra. We look forward to checking out the patios this afternoon and tomorrow...though our tired feet need a rest as well. I can not believe how much walking we do every day. I just keep saying ¨My butt is getting smaller. I am earning that Sangria and Tapas¨.

On a more personal note, (sappiness coming...be warned) I am so in love with my husband. I really lucked out finding and keeping Michael. He has been a rock of fun and spontenaity and sanity helping me to balance my ·slight· tendency towards planning and controlling everything-something that is NOT possible when travelling in Portugal and Spain. Michael is so supportive and fun, and ACCOMODATING. He is also emencely capable, and quite an insightful blogger as I now see ...though I beg to differ with some of the ·ms hung over cranky pants· comments. I am a very very lucky woman.

Hugs and love to you all...I miss you (and big hugs for Andy too...give him an extra treat from his mum will ya?)
Emily