Home safe

We arrived home last night, and were thrilled to be met at the aiport by Marion, Stephan and Tyler. We had a lovely visit with them, Nicole, Morgan and Lucas (who appears to have grown a foot since we left).

Our luggage has yet to arrive in Vancouver, but we remain ever hopeful.

More photos and last updates to come...

Safe, sound, and many tales to tell...

Hello again. This is Emily writing from the bustling city of Barcelona. We arrived just this afternoon, and finally have access to internet again. Our last 5 days in Granada were largely spent out of Granada...we spent day one at the breath-taking Alhambra (add to your must-see-in-your-lifetime) lists. After that we spent the next three days driving through the gorgeous (and rural...hence no internet access) country side. It was lovely. I need a nap now, but we will be sure to update again soon and add some photos.

hugs and love,
Em

Peace in the Middle East

Hello dear friends and family. I (Emily) am finally able to be the one updating the blog as my dear husband sleeps...We are in hot and sunny Andalucia, having arrived by the high speed AVE train from Sevilla to Cordoba this morning. The train was very comfortable and only 42 min. We are here in Cordoba during the Feia de los Patios...the May Patio Festival. A time when the normally private inner courtyards of the homes and businesses around Cordoba open to the public for viewing while the flowers are in full bloom. We will start our walking tour of the patios around the city after the siesta, though we have already had a long visit to the Mezquita (cathedral), the main attraction in Cordoba.

After visiting the Mezquita and other sites in Sevilla, it is with a clearer picture of the history of the relationship between Muslims and Christians that I now contextualize the current ¨Peace in the Middle East¨. We are staying in the Jewish quarter of Cordoba, in a Catholic country, once rulled by the Moors. The Mezquita is a wonderful, huge mosque with shimmering golden mosaics and rows and rows of red-and-white striped arches disappearing off into infinity, it is clearly one of the great creations of Islamic architecture, founded in 785 on the site of a Visigothic curch that had been partitioned between Muslims and Christians. What is so remarkable, is that in the middle of this historical Mosque, they plunked a 16th century cathedral and the surrounding parts have tons of smaller Capillas. It is such an odd mixture of the two religions, but together they make a most remarkable and historically notable building.

In Sevilla, I visited the Alcathar, another Moorish/Spanish fortress of great strength and beauty. Here too there have been controversies over the history, and a melding of history and architecture. Located next to the gigantic and austentatious Cathedral in downtown Sevilla, this intriuging and beautiful complex is intimately associated with the lives and loves of several later rulers, above all, the extraordinary Pedro I of Castille (1350-69) who was knows as either Pedro El Cruel, or Pedro El Justiciero. Originally founded as a fort for the Cordoban governors of Seville in 913, the Alcazar has been expanded or reconstructed many times in its 11 centuries of existence. There are walls, gorgiously decorated, that have a section above reciting the powers of Allah, and directly below, exhalting a Spanish King. Such beautiful combinations of complex contraditions abound...as do controversies about history. It seems every time they do an excavation, they discover that a building thought to be founded by the Christians was founded by the Moors or vice versa. (Glad I don´t have to sit in those board room meetings). Here it is clear that the locals and goverment officials refer to the Mezquita as ¨the Cathedral¨, while our guide books refer to it as the ¨Mezquita¨.

I guess the question is, with these centuries of conflict, would we ever expect to find peace in the middle east?

On a brighter note, Michael and I continue to have a lovely time. Our last hostel was not fancy, but it was central, and relatively clean. Much the same can be said for the current one...though the bed is much more comfortable! We have 2 nights here before heading off to Granada, to see the ultimate in Moorish splendor: the Alhambra. We look forward to checking out the patios this afternoon and tomorrow...though our tired feet need a rest as well. I can not believe how much walking we do every day. I just keep saying ¨My butt is getting smaller. I am earning that Sangria and Tapas¨.

On a more personal note, (sappiness coming...be warned) I am so in love with my husband. I really lucked out finding and keeping Michael. He has been a rock of fun and spontenaity and sanity helping me to balance my ·slight· tendency towards planning and controlling everything-something that is NOT possible when travelling in Portugal and Spain. Michael is so supportive and fun, and ACCOMODATING. He is also emencely capable, and quite an insightful blogger as I now see ...though I beg to differ with some of the ·ms hung over cranky pants· comments. I am a very very lucky woman.

Hugs and love to you all...I miss you (and big hugs for Andy too...give him an extra treat from his mum will ya?)
Emily

Hangovers are bad...

Well, yesterday did not go quite as planned I'm afraid. Silves turned out to be a dissapointment as the major sites were being renovated, I did manage to buy Emily a great pair of shoes at an outdoor market which she seems fond of. We ended up leaving Silves early and drove back along the coast to Lagos for a sailboat tour of the beaches and sandstones grottos that define the area. Definatly a must see! The fisherman here have named all the curious rock formations so we got to see the livingroom, the elephant and even the toilet (Shaped like, not used as one) up close and personal.

We had dinner planned at the Solar de Mas where we are staying, and it was easily the best meal we have had in portugal. Momma cooked for us a traditional meal of Cataplana which is a sort of Fish stew made with fresh clams, prawns, monk fish, potatoes, onions, peppers and love all in one big pot. The staff here truly are amazing, so much fun to be around!

We've made some friends here, and last night was highlighted by great food and drink with new friends, with many a toast which goes to explain the subject of this post. Hangovers are indeed, bad.
Now, head in hand, we are off to Seville via Faro and Spain. I look forward to seeing the differences between Portugal and Spain and Seville promises to be an outstanding good time... however we are both sad to leave this place, it's people and most specifically Solar de Mos.

Thanks for reading!
-Michael

Great planning vs. Alarm clocks.

Alarm clocks win every time. We are off, very late and amidst the general teasing of the staff and fellow tourists here.
Last day with the car, and I have a good feeling about Silves (The town we are headed to right now) everyone says it is fantastic. Sadly, because of our delayed waking we are missing out on a boat tour of the grottos here... but we got some much needed sleep so it's all good.

Gotta run!

-Michael

Ahh Lagos... and the reason I'm here.

So we have arrived in this little party town and I have nothing but good things to say about the place we are staying at, Solar De Mos.. absolutely fantastic. The staff here are warm and helpfull with the perfect dose of cheek. They make fun of us tourists while taking fantastic care of us. The entire staff appears to be related, which adds that extra flair. It's funny to watch the bartenders fight about which is the better Port.

Time is still passing very quickly for us, our days are packed with spectacular adventures. We are making full use of the car we have rented, and have explored in full both coasts of portugal as well as forays into the interior. Standard site seeing has taken place, and Emily and I are getting along famously. Some of the standout spots we have visited are the grottos along the coast here that unfold in shocking reds and oranges into a aquamarine ocean breaking against the rocks. I also can't say enough about the driving here... lush rolling hills with tiny towns tucked away that are all friendly and rustic. Ancient monastaries hidden in hills that take some intrepid travel to find, but are always worth the effort. This is a land with such a rich history, and if you look hard enough you can find it everywhere. We could not have picked a better spot to visit, and I could not have picked a better person to be here with...

*** Warning, Sappy! Guard your eyes! ***

I love my wife. Emily has been fantastic... and as beautiful as it is here, she outshines it all. She is a joy to travel with, always up for an adventure and as giving as we all know her to be. I find myself sneaking glances at the passenger seat more than I do out the windows of the car. As breathtaking as Portugal is, she is the one that truly takes my breath away. I'm here on my honeymoon with the best woman I have ever met, and I was lucky enough to trick her into marrying a normal, boring guy like me. Portugal and the beauty here has brought a light into her eyes that no camera can capture, and I am not ashamed to say that I am glad to have her all to myself here. I love her, with all my heart. We are all lucky to be her friend, but I alone get to be her husband, here on our honeymoon, and that thought alone makes me happier than all the beauty in Portugal.

-Michael